Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Teaching Iraqi Refugees


I left my full-time teaching job at the end of January, 2012. It had been a relentless amount of work. Four hours every day in the classroom and the same amount of time each day to prepare for the next lesson. I loved my colleagues and felt my department was well-managed, and I was understanding and working well with my students. Still, their incessant talk while I tried to teach was disheartening. I never completely figured out the reason for this disrespect in an otherwise polite culture. My tentative conclusion was that Turkish students are pushed around a lot, reduced solely to one test score as they compete to see who will go to university and who will not be accepted at all. I wondered if they weren't taking their anger out on their teachers.

At any rate, I had finished working for pay in Turkey. Not surprisingly, I found myself with a lot of time on my hands. Although I planned to do a great deal of sightseeing (and did) in my last months in Turkey, I still had time to offer my services as a teacher. I placed an announcement to this effect on the expatriate women’s listserv, and quickly received some replies. One was from a friend and long-time Istanbul resident who worked with Caritas, an organization that helps fulfill the social justice mission of the Catholic Church. “My Iraqi refugees need an English teacher,” she told me. “Are you interested?”  I was.

Before long I was traveling to Elmadağ, a working class section of Istanbul near Taksim Square. I would teach in a rundown building on which hung a plaque that read “Vatican Embassy.” In addition to Caritas, the building housed the Don Bosco School, run by and for Iraqi refugees. (Don Bosco was a nineteenth century Italian priest who dedicated his life to teaching disadvantaged youth, and was later made a saint. Others continued his work by establishing schools named after him in developing countries. My husband attended Don Bosco high school in Calcutta.)

The women I was to teach were Christians who had fled Iraq due to persecution after Saddam Hussein’s downfall. 

Jian was a 23-year-old English teacher from a town that bordered Turkey called Zakho. She was Kurdish in ethnicity, and among the four languages she spoke was Aramaic, the language of Jesus.  

 “My whole life has been war,” Jian told me as we chatted on the first day. “First, when I was born, the Iran-Iraq war was going on. Then, the Gulf War. I was two then. After that there were sanctions. And then when I was 15 years old, my country was invaded.” Jian had fled Iraq with her family immediately after finishing college.  She told me their business had been destroyed and a cousin killed.

Another of my students was a 30-year-old computer programmer from Baghdad, who had enjoyed working in her field for several years. She told me that after the invasion, the majority Muslims in Baghdad had become hostile toward the Christians. She put her hands over her face. “I have seen bad things.”

At this point Jian told me, “Saddam Hussein, he loved the Christians.”

“Really?” I said, astonished. “What do you mean?”

“He give us days off for Christmas, three days each year. And he was never bad to the Christians. We know he was bad to others. But not to the Christians.”

A third student, Samira, vivacious and trilingual, had also studied to be an English teacher. She loved her profession and was eager to be resettled and continue her career. My other students were an engineer and a young mother.

Jian and Samira
My image of refugees from newspaper and television is of people wearing ragged clothing. But Jian, Samira and my other students wore nice-looking jeans, attractive tops, and stylish shoes, brought with them from their middle-class lives in Iraq, where as Jian told me, “all of our clothing comes from Turkey.”

All of these young women were waiting to be placed either in the U.S. or in Australia, a process that could take several years. Jian and Samira were slated for Sydney, where they had relatives. “Half of my town is already there,” Jian told me. “It’s Zakho II.” 

Arriving in Istanbul, these women had expected to spend most of their time at home. Their brothers had ordered them to do so, forbidding them to go out at all in the evenings. (“We are like Muslims in many ways,” Jian told me. “That is because we grew up with Muslims.”) But as it turned out, the Don Bosco School needed teachers, and when the church called, Jian’s and Samira’s families couldn’t refuse. Jian and Samira were currently teaching elementary and high school students, administering exams, and developing curriculum for the school. On Saturdays they taught English to adult Iraqis, and Sundays were spent at church.

The experience had broadened them. Their much-loved priest at Istanbul’s St. Esprit Catholic Church, was from Haiti, and his assistant was West African. “I had never seen a black person before,” Jian confided.

Recognizing that their English was not perfect, they had signed up for classes with me.  And so we started, working together each week on specific grammar topics they requested, and reading about a variety of issues to expand their vocabulary. Every week we watched an episode of the American television show How I Met Your Mother on my laptop. My Turkish students had loved that show, and they did, too. Indeed they were familiar with American media. To my surprise they told me that had watched dozens of episodes of Friends in Iraq, and had seen the movie Titanic multiple times.

Looking at American magazines

Often as I watched my Iraqi students working on a grammar sheet or doing a reading, I couldn’t help but think about the upheaval in their lives, and I had to catch myself from becoming emotional. How could I teach when I was trying not to cry?

Accustomed to being in the Turkish culture and as someone who has had excellent experiences with other Muslims as well, fondness for Islam came reflexively to me. But my students were eager to leave the Muslim world behind. Here in Istanbul, they were on minuscule budgets and didn’t have the transportation or means to visit Istanbul’s dazzling Christian and Muslim sites. Being Arab but Christian kind of set them at odds with their Muslim neighbors. I don’t think there was unpleasantness, just little overt friendliness. The Turks I talked to thought the refugees in their midst were getting resources unfairly without having to work. The Turkish government, however, does not allow refugees to hold jobs.

Toward the end of my work with Caritas, I was able to attend an Iraqi Christian wedding. Held at St. Esprit on a humid June afternoon, the service, complete with bridesmaids, a flower girl and a ring bearer, was conducted in English, but at one point the congregation said the Lord’s Prayer in Arabic.  Very memorable.


Deeply devout, optimistic, eager to work and raise families in their new countries, these folks will be superb assets to Australia and the United States. In fact, I told “my girls” nearly every week that I wished my country was getting all of them.








Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Readers' Choice

Dear readers,

I seem to be posting every two or three weeks, less frequently than before. I apologize. As summer comes and some of my other commitments lessen, I hope to post more often.

Here are some topics I can write about. Would you let me know which you find most interesting?

1.     I have been thinking about separation of church and state, and the fact that most Muslim countries have either government control of religion or religious control of government.



2        I was fortunate to spend almost a year teaching Iraqi Christian refugees in Turkey. Exceptionally devout, they had some surprising things to tell me.

3.     I can provide a reading list about Turkey, recommending my favorite books on the topic. These range from discussions of current events to more lyrical accounts of Turkey’s distant past to a memoir by Turkish Nobel Prize winner, Orhan Pamuk.


4.     I could give you my take on whether or not people should be afraid to visit Turkey. What and where are the dangers?



5.     I could write about culture clashes I observed between Turks and foreigners.



So. . . please let me know what you think. I hope to hear from you!

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Turkey is coming!

Last Sunday I saw a film called Museum Hours. Part of the 2013 Minneapolis Film Festival, the movie centers around a visit to Vienna by a Canadian woman. The woman meets a kind museum guide and he shows her around the city. I was expecting a Vienna travelogue, and in some ways the film provided one. But I was surprised that Turkey entered in. In one scene people are buying lunch at a food truck called "Kismet Kebab." In another scene Austrians visit a bar where they dance to Turkish music. This is no doubt the result of many decades of Turkish people working in Austria.

I am interested in how cultures spread outside their places of origin. Those of us Americans who have been fortunate to travel overseas can't help but notice American foods, films, and other products far from home. And not always the ones we are most proud of.

The Turkish culture has long been influential in the Middle East. My Iraqi students told me that all the clothing sold in Iraq is from Turkey, and I suspect that is also true in other Arab countries as well as some of the "stan" countries. Turkey is also moving to Europe. In 2010, the fashionable Turkish women's store, Yargici, opened a boutique in Paris.

http://greenhotelparis.com/ecotourism/yargici-turkish-fashion-paris/

Most Turkish items that reach the United States are related to food. This is great: Turkish cuisine is both delicious and healthful.

These curved "tulip" glasses, are made by a prestigious Turkish glass manufacturer, Pasabahce. Sold at The Caspian Sea market near the University of Minnesota, they are de rigeur if you're drinking Turkish tea!

Centrally located in St. Paul's Midway neighborhood, The Black Sea restaurant sells delicious soups and kebabs.

Filfillah restaurant in north Minneapolis offers Iskender, a Turkish favorite.
Filfillah also offers the popular, spicy Adana Kebab.
In New York, the sight of a Mango store reminded us of Istanbul, even though the store is Spanish in origin.
We saw a pudding restaurant on the lower East Side, which had to be Turkish inspired. It is not unusual for restaurants in Turkey to be entirely devoted to sutlu tatli (milky desserts).  
I realize that grilled eggplant is native to many Mediterranean countries, but I'm going to give this one to Turkey anyway. Mmm!
One of many food trucks in New York offering Turkish cuisine.

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

A Surprise Gift


Three years ago today I was visiting Istanbul, where Sankar was already hard at work. We decided to take a day trip to one of the Prince’s Islands, a popular destination in the Sea of Marmara that features well-preserved Victorian homes. As we sat on the ferry waiting to leave, a family arrived and sat down next to us: mother, father and three daughters. The mother and two older daughters wore scarfs on their heads, not an uncommon sight in Istanbul. But when we began talking we realized they were not Turks. The family was from Iran.



They introduced themselves in excellent English. The father was a hand surgeon, the mother a scholar of world religions. Their oldest daughter was about to graduate from the University of Tehran in electrical engineering. The middle daughter was studying medicine, and the youngest was a squirmy, artistic eight-year-old.


We had a three-hour boat trip ahead of us, and we ended up chatting with them the entire trip. They offered us sweet, dark Iranian dates and we discussed the recent movie, Avatar; U.S. graduate schools (of great interest to the engineering student); 3M surgical products the father used even though sanctions prohibited their import; and the country’s recent, failed Green movement.



It was exhilarating to talk with "forbidden" people. Kind of like encountering citizens of the Soviet Union during the Cold War. But I had to stop and compose myself several times so I didn't start to weep. I was aware of what my country had done to Iran. The U.S.-sponsored coup that removed its democratically-elected leader in 1953. Our support of the repressive Shah who kept our oil prices low, but sparked the widespread outrage that led to fundamentalist rule. Our assistance to Saddam Hussein during the 8-year Iran-Iraq war. What did these friendly, exquisitely polite folks think of us and our country? 

It was a fascinating day, more because of our congenial new friends than our quiet island destination. 



Three years ago. We were poised at the beginning of our time in Asia Minor, with dozens of interesting experiences ahead of us.  Now our years in Turkey have ended. We are back in Minnesota, and the gray snow and long winter months have done their work. We have learned to be “normal” again. We have learned to talk infrequently about our experiences. Minnesotans are good at prodding us back into place.



But I still think of that day, my 55th birthday. I wish I was back on that boat. Back at precisely the moment when five strangers sat down beside us.

Monday, March 18, 2013

Turkey's Thomas Friedman


One of the interesting distractions of moving to a different country is becoming familiar with a completely different set of national debates and controversies. You might ask why anyone would want to take on a second set of problems. Simply because I could play the role of an uninvolved bystander, that’s why. I could leave my own country’s seemingly intractable problems far away and sit on the sidelines as a dispassionate observer.

Shortly after we moved to Turkey, Sankar and I took out a subscription to one of the country's daily English language newspapers, the Hurriyet, which means freedom. Before long I began enjoy a column written by one Mustafa Akyol. This young writer was good at locating middle ground in the country's most passionately-argued controversies: religion versus strict secularity in society, and the rights of Turkey’s Kurdish minority.



Akyol showed sympathy for Turkish women who choose to cover their hair with the traditional headscarf. For the past 75 years, these women have been prohibited from entering government buildings, including schools and universities. And Akyol didn’t demonize Turkey’s Kurds.  


Newspapers outside Turkey were beginning to notice Akyol. Last May, he published an article in the New York Times entitled, Can Islamists Be Liberals?

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/14/opinion/can-islamists-be-liberals.html?_r=0 


Mr. Akyol now has a book out. It is called Islam Without Extremes. He also gave a Ted Talk recently. During it he answers questions about Islam that many Americans have:

Why do Muslims believe in separating men and women?

Why do Muslims adhere to practices like female circumcision that the rest of the world considers barbaric?
              
Why is there so much anger directed from devout Muslims toward the West?

Is Islam incompatible with freedom and democracy?

Why is Turkey different from other Muslim nations in the Middle East?

For his balance and wide appeal, I consider Mustafa Akyol the Thomas Friedman of Turkey. I encourage you to watch his Ted Talk:

Monday, March 4, 2013

My Turkey Box


Sooner or later, experiences have to be packed away. Certainly emotionally, as we move on to new places, activities and friends, but sometimes also physically. Sankar and I are in the process of selling our house, and thus packing away the "stuff" from our recent Turkish experience has become necessary.

The people that advise us on how best to market our house recommend “blandifying” it. Neutral paint colors, limited family photos and midde-of-the-road decorative objects. No knickknacks that scream ethnicity.  So although we love our Latin-America-inspired terracotta dining room walls and lapis lazuli upstairs landing, they will disapper this week under a coat (or two or three) of pale yellow paint. And although we can’t wait to Turkify our new house with colorful ceramics and richly woven kilims, we will have to wait. At any rate, most of our Turkish stuff is still in transit.

The Turkish items I have here include decorative items as well as prosaic stuff that helped us during our time in Turkey. I recently put all of these into a box and placed it on a shelf in our basement.  

My Turkey Box is ten inches long, fourteen inches wide, and about eight inches deep. It should be made of marble or fine wood inlayed with mother of pearl, but it is not. It is made of plastic with a tight, snap-on top that provides protection from dust and humidity.



The first thing you see in my Turkey box is a scarf. I bought this and several others at Seda Tekstil in the Grand Bazaar for my friend Karen, who visited in October. Sorry I haven't gotten these to you yet, Karen! I loved buying scarfs for someone else because I could run wild and pick out colors that I love, but which don't flatter me.



Next in my box are key chains, about 25 in all. Some are attached to each other in groups of ten, and others are single. I bought the attached key chains just up the hill from the Rustem Pasha mosque in Eminonu. They were 10 for 10 lira (about $6). I plan to hang them on my wall as soon as I'm not under the scrutiny of realtors.


The next items are Ottoman-themed metal business card holders and a fun bracelet. I bought these at a good price from Harem Gifts in the Grand Bazaar. 


This next item looks like the Turkish tea saucer nearly everyone in Turkey uses. But it is not. It is a package of cardboard coasters made to look like Turkish tea saucers. I bought it at the clever Kagithane (Paper Place) shop in Karakoy, and I like it so much that I'm not sure I'm ever going to open the package and actually use the coasters.


I love this next item. I bought it with my shopping friends, Waverley and Rhonda, one day as we looked for fabric in Eminonu. There is a small, covered shopping area in Eminonu that is comprised entirely of shops selling bolts of fabric. After greeting the proprietors in a shop we had visited before, we noticed a neat pile of these scarves on the counter. They were made of delicate white muslin trimmed with lace that had a pleasing heft to it thanks to some metalwork. The guy told us his wife had made them by hand, and when I picked one up and prepared to buy it, he phoned her and told her excitedly that she had sold one.




The final decorative item in my box is some silk ikat fabric from Uzbekistan, again purchased from the Grand Bazaar. Ikat is a technique that involves dyeing patterns into the threads before the fabric is woven. Ikat is becoming popular in the States and is even featured in the current Pottery Barn catalog. I love the colors and the pattern of the ikat I purchased. It is narrow in width, but I hope to use it to cover a chair or two.

Also in the box are some items that made my life easier in Turkey.


Here is my Kindle, a generous gift from a friend who visited Turkey in the fall of 2010. Being a bit of a Luddite, I probably would have delayed purchasing an electronic reader for myself, but I immediately started using it, and found it invaluable throughout my stay in Turkey. I have over sixty books on my Kindle, and although I prefer reading "live" books, I have already used it here in Minnesota.


My Turkish-English-Turkish dictionary traveled everywhere in Turkey with me This is not actually my original dictionary, which was published by Redhouse, an American-owned publisher with long ties to Turkey. My Redhouse dictionary got completely beat up during my years in Turkey. Pages were folded over and torn, the binding was half off, the edges were dirty, and finally my water bottle spilled on it. I was afraid the fastidious Turks would be offended if I pulled it out of my purse one more time, so I tossed it in the garbage and used this one (it wasn't quite as good) during my last months.



This is my Turkish cell phone. Some people in the States were surprised I had a Turkish phone, but the need for it becomes clear when you realize that people in Turkey didn't want to make an international call in order to talk with me. I never could quite remember the phone number, so like a person with memory problems, I kept it written down on a card in my purse. But I do, absurdly, remember the code I needed to unlock it.


This is another cell phone, my musafir or visitor cell phone, along with all its paperwork. I got the visitor cell phone idea from Waverley, and it was a good one. We gave this to our guests with pre-programmed numbers so they could call us whenever they needed to.  Unfortunately, we didn't actually implement this idea until six months before we left the country.

This last item was one of my most prized possessions in Istanbul. It is my Istanbul card, still very much active.




The Istanbulkart, when loaded with Turkish lira, enables passage on any bus, ferryboat, tram or metro car in the city. I used it most often for the tram, gliding into the Old City with no concern for narrow streets or heavy traffic. My Istanbul card was my pass to explore the city, and I used it almost every day.  

Thoughts about Turkey still infuse nearly everything I do, and my friends and family are patient  listeners as I recount my experiences. I haven't yet compartmentalized or packed away the emotional experience (and neither has daughter, Angela, who visited five times).  But the physical items are all neatly in one place. And I am glad. These items are precious, and now I know they won't get dirty or misplaced. And I will be needing some of them again: we are talking about returning to "the homeland" in June.